A momentous post; this is the last retrospective! I am up to date so will now be posting in walk order and hopefully within memory span. Back to Budleigh. Another rare day with 2 cars available but not very promising weather so this was a short continuation walk from 2 years ago. It required a short overlap as we walked from White Bridge beside the River Otter, but then it was all new ground to Ladram Bay. It had been a very wet morning but the rain stayed inland of us and we even had a few splashes of sun. The wind however was very much in evidence, small people could have been blown over the edge. As we got closer to Ladram it was more sheltered. The cliffs are deeply red on this section, and badly eroded in places. The path stays well away from the edge but huge vertical cracks are evident at almost every headland and it’s not always obvious how much under cutting there is below the path. This was the first day I walked with 2 sticks, a success today, but perhaps it wouldn’t work so well on a narrow path. The walk was easy, not many ascents or descents but with High Peak and Peak Hill firmly planted in our sights after Ladram Bay maybe it’s all relative. Another day I’ll tackle that section. Ladram Bay is one big holiday park but the facilities are there for the use of and did I mention an ice cream shop?
I have walked 105.5 miles so far with 524.5 to go. Believe me that half mile is important at this stage.
I was content that I had completed the path from Cawsand right round to Stoke beach until a casual conversation caused me to look again at the handbook. It refers to the ferry from the Mayflower Steps to Mountbatten as an unofficial short cut. And there it was – unofficial – bold as can be in its unofficialness. Did I really want to walk the length of the naviagable part of the Plym, cross the A379 along with all the other traffic pumping out exhaust emissions, and then walk all the way back along the Plym? Not really, but the short cut was unofficial – there it was, that word again. Tom was game, not sure he knew quite how far it was, so we did it. We took the “unofficial short cut” ferry back to the Mayflower Steps and set off. In fact it was an interesting walk, new ground with unfamiliar views of the familiar. Anchored outside the Sound was HMS Queen Elizabeth about to start sea trials. At the time of writing she’s the largest and most technically advanced warship ever built in this country. Some of the path passes through heavy industrial areas, oil storage facilities, factories and this and that. To be honest it’s not the nicest of rivers, just here anyway. After a lengthy toddle along the main road we reached the head of Pomphlett creek and were able to get back to a quieter part. Turn right at the rhinoceros the handbook says curiously but there he was in a quiet little dell minding his own business. For 20 years we’ve driven by with no idea that a rhino was grazing a few feet away. The other side of the river was much more varied and considerably nicer. Still some light industry, lots of boat building but interspersed with lakes, fishing villages and general quaintness. Even a mini folly at Radford lake. It was a long walk, but the weather was glorious and we saw a rhinoceros.
A lovely bright start to the day but the forecast is not too rosy. I wanted to fill the small gap in the path left between the hotel and ferry point. We’d avoided walking around Pendennis Point due to time constraints on other days but missing those couple of miles would mean a dedicated trip back to Falmouth another time. Not one metre shall be missed! There was a charity swim from Pendennis to St Mawes so the headland was packed with people. Getting onto the coast path was almost impossible as we chose the very time the endless line of swimmers was amassing. Once they had got to the water’s edge we were able to start. Nice to have the crowds cheering us on as we set off – did they think we were over-dressed swimmers at the back of the line? The path signage wasn’t too clever at the beginning, a choice of tracks led us down a couple of dead ends. Such drama over a very short walk. It’s pretty until the path arrives at the working part of the port. A tropical looking cove or two and some splendid views across to the Rosalind and Bohortha peninsular. Our bonus today was the hundreds of swimmers striking out across Carrick Roads – good luck to them. We linked up with our walk from the previous day so I can now tick off the Maenporth to Portscathoe section. Quite a substantial chunk done but in the distance there are miles and miles and miles still waiting to be covered.
This walk was planned with military detail. It involved 3 ferry crossings, one bus journey and 7 miles of walking, all intended to dovetail seamlessly together. The weather was blustery but fine, sunshine on the coast and dark clouds scudding over inland Cornwall. It was quite a walk to the St Mawes ferry, tidal conditions mean it has varying departure points so inevitably it was at the furthest point for us. Still, it got the legs moving. St Mawes is very pretty, had we more time we’d have lingered but the bus to Gerrans waits for no walkers. The driver didn’t seem to know where best to drop us so we chose a point on the main road and then followed the bus down the hill (doh!) to Portscatho which was actually our start point. Next time I’ll know – and there will be a next time. We picked up our lunch in a general store in Portscatho and regretted that we couldn’t stop for lunch in the swish restaurant on the water’s edge. Maybe at the end of the Portloe/Portscatho walk – if I remember. We walked into the wind but mostly we were sheltered by the headlands until the lighthouse at the very end above Carrick Roads. There was a lot of wildlife to see (Tom had his binoculars), skylarks and seabirds but one strangely coloured bird that we have failed to identify. Today’s bonus i-spy was a seal lolling around on the rocks far below us. We found a seat with a view for our break but it was an exposed spot, so, quick lunch. As we reached the battery and made our turn up the estuary the sky threatened and sure enough a nasty shower gave us a drenching. The signpost indicated a short walk to Place for the ferry but either we missed the path or were on the wrong one, it was definitely much further than indicated. Ironically we could see the ferry station but had to navigate round a private estate where they were about to hold a wedding reception. By the time we got to the ferry station the squall had long gone and we waited in the warm summer sun, steam rising off our wet backs. The ferry did come at the appointed time but the Percuil river was choppy so we were lucky it was still running. Very lucky actually as we were on the end of a peninsular with no public transport before Gerrans from where we’d just walked, 7 miles away!! I don’t think we’d factored that into the plans so phew! A hot cup of tea was required at St Mawes. I can’t believe I rejected the ice cream offer but time and place etc. Another little squall hit on the crossing back to Falmouth but the sun then came out for us to enjoy on our shorter walk, low tide, back to the hotel. Oh yes, the ferry docked just by an ice cream shop;)
Tom and I were in Falmouth for the South West Coast Path Association AGM. The meetings are lively and informative, plus it’s good to support the group that work tirelessly to maintain this fantastic trail for the enjoyment of so many. The spin off being that we are in a new location to bag some more miles. The hotel is literally on the path with fabulous views of the bay. It was such a warm sunny day when we arrived that we toddled off along the seafront without forethought, or indeed backpacks. One of those glorious days when you just keep going and so we found ourselves in Maenporth some 3 miles later. This was in my planning for one of the days so no problem, walk done and dusted, just a question of finding the bus stop to return to Falmouth. So much of the coast path is sans signal so the bus app. wasn’t helping. Maenporth is just a beach, holiday village and a popular beach cafe which sadly had been devastated by fire the previous week. So we were up the creek without a signal until a helpful lady informed us that the bus stop had recently been taken away due to the service being suspended. That’s not what you want to hear on a hot day with only one way back and a husband with crook knees – but back we went retracing our steps as far as Swanpool where we reunited with the phone signal and called a taxi! It is a pretty walk, easy on the whole but it isn’t good to have a plan break down. The bus route was lauded in the handbook so that needs to be edited for next year’s edition. Some medicinal therapy in the hotel bar provided relief for the aforementioned knees – which lived to walk another day.
This walk has been loitering at the back of my mind for some time. Just a few miles from home but graded as strenuous in places so I’ve put it off. An overcast day with a slight sea breeze seemed to be a good omen so off I went. Close to home but 3 bus journeys to get there – feeling tired before even starting! Walking down to the village I missed the footpath sign and ended up on the beach which meant an unwanted climb back to the start of my walk. If I’d come from Babbacombe and not tried to slip in half way along the section I think I would have found the path more easily. There I was thinking 3 miles would be easier than 6. The first part was moderate, so feeling chirpy I took photos and admired the stunning red cliffs below and ahead. I’m sure it wasn’t in the forecast but nonetheless the sun came out and I was soon divesting and lathering on the sunblock. This definitely wasn’t in my plan and I knew there wasn’t really an escape route along the walk. It got hotter and hotter, seemingly in conjunction with the angle of the path, and no shade for the steepest bits either. Usually on walks what goes up then has to go down but this walk is very much on the up bit. I trudged slowly, stopped frequently and took on water but doubts were creeping in about doing any more of the coast path – ever! After the steepest section I lay on the grass and pondered. A helpful way marker told me that I was exactly half way but I knew that a road and car park were not too far above me. I could go on, I could go back or maybe I could crawl up to the road and find a bus stop. I even considered crawling up to the car park and sprawling there in the hope someone would offer me a lift home. At my age that wasn’t high on the probability spectrum. Anyone would think I’d just climbed Everest. Breathing and heart rate returning to normal I ate my sandwich and felt a whole lot better. The car park option faded and the forward option seemed the best plan although I knew there were still a few steep sections. As it happened the worst part was over even though the next section took me almost down to sea level before a long run of steps up to the top again. Hundreds of them! Whilst steps aren’t much fun for the knees they do get you to the other end faster than a slope. I had a pleasant rest half way where I came across a step repair man, as you do. After I got my breath back I joined in the conversation, even felt a bit sorry for him as he described getting along the path with his tools, sand, sleepers and other bits and pieces. The next flight I positively skipped up, until I was out of sight of step repair man, and then plodded on. Without warning I was suddenly on top of the world, looking down at Teignmouth on the other side of the river and only the long downward home straight left. A little treat slithered across infront of me and I helped him on his way safely off the pathway. I had a fair bit of leg wobble on the gentle ascent to Shaldon but I still enjoyed the lookout point above the Ness. Never been up there before, and never going again, from that direction at least. A ferry links to the next walk at Teignmouth, a section which I’ve done, so I extended my walk by about a mile, walking through the village, across the long bridge and on to the nearest bus stop. I did find the middle section tough, but the memory of that faded somewhat as the elation at completing my first strenuous section kicked in. Over the next few days I contemplated going straight back to do the first 3 miles from Babbacombe to Maidencombe. Common sense prevailed but it is going to happen so keep following………..
After the easy walk earlier this month Tom and I are off to bag another 7 miles in North Devon. Today we walked on the west side of the estuary. Another sunny day. Interesting to see the points on our previous walk from a different perspective but we both agreed that flat walks, although easy on the body, are dull. We like some undulation so that you can’t see what’s round the corner, or indeed ahead for the next 7 miles. There were a few more birds on this section but it’s a busy trail so nothing gets too close to the path. Fremington Quay, about half way, is an excellent resting point. There are cakes to die for and pretty good ice cream. Salted caramel? Yes please Ma’am. Our legs were dragging by the time we got to Instow but we revived rapidly in a pub with outstanding views from the upper deck. A shout out for The Boathouse. Restored we were able to totter up the only hill of the day to catch the bus back to Barnstaple.
Barnstaple to Braunton today with Tom. A cutesie train ride from Exeter to Barnstaple. Thank you Dr Beeching for letting this one survive. We knew this would be an easy trek along the side of the estuary. Apart from the huge bridge across the river the walk is flat, flat, flat. We chose a sunny day but up on the bridge it was bitterly cold and we paused to put on warmer layers which had to be shed the minute we got onto the path. It turned out we chose the best side of the river, nice and sheltered from the NE wind. I must get into a habit of thinking it all through on future walks, I’m sure there will be some stretches where even the smallest adversity will count. Disappointing not to see more wildlife along the estuary. The path moves away from the river to get around RAF Chivenor and then becomes urban. As we emerged into Velator we spied a newly opened cafe, The Quay. Very unassuming from the outside but what a treat it was, a huge menu, wifi, phone charge points and lots of space. After lunch we drooled over the ice cream counter and were treated to a very generous triple cone. It would have been rude not to……….. but I did promise to put the word out there that this watering hole is excellent and in the very best place for those on the coast path trek. The buses run frequently between Barnstaple and Braunton so it made a very efficient walk/travel day.
This was a rare opportunity with access to 2 cars to get a chunk of coast path done without retracing steps. Charlotte, Nick and Malory visited for an EMG performance of Carmina Burana so with Tom’s kind assistance we parked one car at Noss Mayo and were dropped at Stoke beach which gave us a reasonable 5 mile stroll. A very windy day and how thankful were we to have chosen a clockwise walk. It’s not often you realise what protection a back pack offers! The first part of the walk was new to me but the carriage walk I’ve done many times and it ranks as one of my all time favourites. Stunning views, relatively flat, happy memories of canoeing holidays at Warren Point; it ticks all the boxes. If Nick is around it must be geocaching too so we bagged a few of those along the way. All in all a very invigorating afternoon with the bonus of Karl Orff in the evening. Perfick!
22 February 2019. This is an urban walk in parts but not unpleasant, especially when away from the main road. It’s a bit of a trek to get to Torquay harbour by bus but I get a buzz from using public transport and there’s a virtue in not retracing steps back to the car. It was a mild day considering the date but a sea fret lurked and cooled it off slightly. The promenade round to Livermead was busy, busy. How lovely for everyone to be enjoying themselves at this time of year. It’s not possible to be on the coast all the time but the route is waymarked pretty well, particularly along the road sections. Obligatory ice cream was taken on the promenade at Paignton where I sat and watched small children paddling. Paddling in February suggests some form of craziness. At Roundham Point there is a memorial to LCdr. Arthur Harrison V.C. A Torquay boy, with a fascinating life story. He died in the Zeebrugge raid in April 1918, sadly his body was never recovered. A poignant moment to stumble across this story 101 years later. Approaching Goodrington is pretty, from above, right on the cliff top before winding down to the beach. I shielded my eyes from the monstrosity that is the water park, though I guess the kids have fun there in the summer. It was surprising to find a Premier Inn beside the beach; they get everywhere. I broke my walk here to catch the bus back and resumed the trek a month later on another incredibly mild day but this time with full sun. From Goodrington I walked to Brixham which is a beautiful section with some moderate climbs to remind me what I have instore. Elbury Cove, Churston Cove and Fishcombe Cove all looking stunning from above with the bluest of seas. The last headland before Brixham loomed threateningly and I was running out of steam. Serendipity! The path skirts sneakily around the base of the cliff and is completely flat and so it was that I arrived at Brixham harbour with a few more gasps left in me. I am getting the idea that 5 miles of moderate path is my limit at the moment. I guess I need to build stamina for some of the severe sections to come.
Trailing acorns 