This walk presented itself quite unexpectedly. Charlotte, recently moved to Kenilworth, paid a visit so I joined her, Nick and Malory for a ‘gentle’ coastal stroll. It ticked off a few more miles for me and bagged some geocaches too. We walked to Boscastle but it would be just as lovely in the opposite direction, although the sun is low in the sky in October so it was easier to have it setting behind us. Beautiful scenery with many headlands, but also many steps down into deep valleys and by necessity up the other side. Fact: the coast path has over 30,000 steps so I guess it was good to get some of them out of the way early on. The path was busy at both ends, but in the middle very tranquil. My knees would classify it on the tough side of moderate because of the steps.
21 June 2018. Accompanied by Tom, we used public transport to Cockwood and then walked the last mile from a previous walk to link up with the Starcross – Exmouth ferry. We’re lucky to be able to choose the fine days for walking and this was a very fine day indeed judging from the amount of sunblock I used. Crossing the Exe is fun, dodging all the yachts bobbing on their moorings. We landed at the old harbour and put our blinkers on as we ran the gauntlet of ice cream kiosks. The sea front is buzzing with life; swimmers, kite surfers, sand castle builders, dogs and their owners and the odd walker. I say odd because we were laden with rucksacks, poles and walking shoes while the rest of the world was scantily clad befitting a day at the beach. The theatre is a good loo stop but while we were there we grabbed a tasty sandwich and then continued to the end of the promenade. At low tide I think it’s possible to walk round the headland but the tide was in so our luck was out and we had to climb the cliff to arrive at Orcombe Point. Checked out Rodney Point just before the end of our walk. A nice cool breeze up there and an assessment of how I link this walk into the onward section. Car, bus, train? Well another day I’ll figure it out and for today it’s back along the seafront to have the ice cream reward. You didn’t think I’d let a day at the beach pass without ice cream did you?
16 April 2018. Breakfast in St Ives with Charlotte, Nick and Malory before this estuary walk to Lelant. It was a dull, damp day which got brighter and hotter involving delayering and then carrying excess clothing. I like to get going but my companions have a more leisurely approach as a rule. Today it involved walking in the opposite directions for a while, to get a geocache or two. St Ives is pretty, but overly busy so it was nice to get out of town and lose the bustle. We followed the railway track for a while, passed through a holiday resort at Carbis Bay and then crossed the track to the estuary side of the golf course. Not too strenuous and of course superb views back along the coast to Godrevy. As always I find the coast path ahead, or behind me, somewhat overwhelming. It all needs to be trod in this challenge if I’m to succeed. One day I hope to look at the view and see miles and miles of path that I’ve walked. Still……..won’t get done if I keep talking about it. At Lelant we walked up to the main road, passed some hours earlier on the bus, and had a late lunch at the Badger Inn. Yummy too. The return to St Ives was by train on the St Erth line. Not a cutesie steam train along the estuary but a proper Great Western service, albeit a 2 carriage jobbie. Lelant is a request stop so waving of arms is required. Another delightful estuary/coastal train ride which ended our walk back in St Ives.
April 2018. A trip to Penzance with Charlotte, Nick and Malory. We stayed at a cute Airbnb in the town and used the excellent public transport. The younger, fitter folk (i.e. everyone but me) went off to do a strenuous walk on the north coast leaving me to do something more sedate. Penzance to Mousehole is a gem of a walk, along the seafront to Newlyn and then around the headland to Mousehole. Newlyn is worthy of exploration too. The sea was benign the day I walked but passing the Penlee Lifeboat Memorial is a stark reminder of the terrible night in December 1981 when the lifeboat Soloman Browne went to aid a vessel in distress, MV Union Star. 16 people died that night including the 8 lifeboatmen. Mousehole is quaint indeed; a vibrant fishing village with many literary associations. Around the village are images of cats, a nod to the wonderful book by Antonia Barber – The Mousehole Cat. Plenty of ice cream available here but for the stronger stomachs this is the home of Stargazy Pie. At Christmas time the village is famed for the festive light display. The lights are turned off for one hour every December 19th in memory of the Penlee lifeboat crew who were nearly all from Mousehole. Don’t miss Rock Pool cafe for an excellent lunch in a fabulous setting. On another day, we all walked from Marazion back to Penzance. Different day, different weather and we did get caught in a downpour. It’s a flat easy walk, headwinds notwithstanding, but always Mounts Bay with spectacular St Michael’s Mount in view. Mount Haven restaurant is a good lunch choice and dogs are welcomed. Btw anyone who walks with Nick will know geocaching is compulsory on any walk!
I think this walk happened around mid September 2017. Certainly the early days of my decision to do the walk and made all the more delicious as it was the first September in many years that I was not going back to school. Therefore, a beautiful day in more ways than one. Tom joined me. We parked at the eastern end and then walked inland to White Bridge to cross the Otter and back down the other side of the estuary to have our picnic on the headland looking back to the town. Retracing our steps we carried on along the seafront to the western end of town where I hoped to emerge one day in the future having walked from Orcombe Point. Famous residents of Budleigh include Dame Hilary Mantel.
Precise date forgotten but it was one of those days when the stars aligned and off I went on the bus to Teignmouth. Flat and seasidey to begin and then the trail runs along beside the railway track before the train disappears into a tunnel and walkers have to go the long way round. A little section on the road but soon the path goes back towards the coast and a downhill stretch to rejoin the railway. I stopped at the bottom to have my lunch and wave to the passing trains, sad or what? The path climbs up again and back to the road for a short while before passing through the gardens above Coryton cove and then winding down to the beach. A variety of terrain. The bus wasn’t due so I had time to collect one of those fantastic Dawlish ice creams armed with clotted cream. My reward for a walk well done. I return to this point a few days later to continue …….. so, the urge to begin with an ice cream is almost irresistible but I overcome it and, this time with Tom, we continue along the red sandstone route to Dawlish Warren. The path needs to cross under God’s wonderful railway but it’s a real bonus to continue along the sandspit to the end of the warren and back through the nature reserve. Super little education centre in the reserve. Memories of visits with Charlotte and friends! Back on the trail it’s necessary to pound the pavement for a short while to pick up the path/cycle track. It’s not the quietest of routes with both road and the railway alongside but plenty of solitude ahead. Lunch at the Ship Inn at Cockwood is just about compulsory, not to mention delicious, and all that remains of this walk is a quick sprint across the bridge to catch the return bus.
This is a big day. The longest walk so far and also the finish of the coast path trail. (I have yet to do the start and 600 odd miles of the middle bits) My plan has always been to do the walk “in bits” and in no particular order so this is where I can get the picture of the finish sculpture and then fill in the rest over the years. Tom came along on this one too, on a super day, sunny with occasional overcast spells but nice and mild. We had already walked a mile from our hotel in Bournemouth before catching the bus to Swanage but all set up like proper walkers with our sandwiches, water and emergency supplies. How serious are we? Swanage looked quaint but no time to dally. We started off along the promenade towards the chalky distant cliffs. Quite a steep climb up but a few rests along the way and we were on top with only gentle downhill for the rest of the day. Stunning views in all directions. On the headland we were treated to a pair of red kites doing their thing with such ease. A bird we don’t have in Devon – yet. Matching the sky and stunning sea we saw blue butterflies. Adonis blue and chalk hill blue. Thank you to the I-spy book of blue things. Old Harry Rocks looked spectacular in the sun, a hot part of the walk with no shade and every seat taken with people enjoying the views. Across the water the Needles sing out in unison. Further along we got down to the beach and a much needed lunch break. Studland bay stretches out ahead and was a tad overwhelming but there are civilised facilities. Step by step the distance lessened and looking back is more heartening than forwards. Looking anywhere while passing through the nudist beach is tricky but a wind had whipped up so some covering up had occurred. If I ever do this walk again I must remember that low tide is the best time to walk, on the hard wet sand as opposed to the soft sand higher up the beach and, even worse – the dunes. Shell bay at the end of the walk comes up fast, thankfully, and suddenly we are a short stroll from the Sculpture. We both felt elated despite wrecked knees. A few folk were taking pictures at the Sculpture and some offered to take some of us. Inevitable conversations struck up about the walk, had we done it in one go, how long did it take and so on. We skulked off quietly as those who had completed 630 miles deserved to enjoy their moment. One day, maybe and hopefully I will also be a completer even if it has been “in bits”.
I dedicate today’s walk to my Father who would have been 98 today. I miss him.
A slightly misty start which gave me a fantastic photo of the Mew Stone. A mild day which got hotter on the steep bits as the sun came out. It’s nice and flat round to Bovisand but climbs steeply from Heybrook Bay to the path above the fort. I’m not sure this was the best direction to take on this walk but I lived to tell the tale. Very few people out and about so I was able to bag the only seat on the cliff to enjoy my lunch. The cliff was full of birds and insects. Jennycliff brought me back to reality – it was heaving with people and dogs enjoying the day. A long cool drink at The Bridge, Yacht Haven where my taxi was waiting! A great sense of achievement today.
A beautiful summer day to tick off 3.4 miles. Tom came along for the ride which started on the Cawsand ferry from Plymouth Barbican. Asking me how we got the right ferry? Well, I went for the one with Cawsand Ferry writ large on the wheelhouse but just a guess. On a fine day the ferry is busy; as is the beach we land on in Cornwall but no passports required, maybe a concession for those among us of a Cornish persuasion. Go on Tom, admit it;) Cawsand and Kingsand merge together these days but back in 1844 Kingsand was in Devon while Cawsand was always Cornish. The old boundary marker is still there. Soon we were climbing out of the village. It’s a lovely walk, especially on a super day. Gentle climbing, above Fort Picklecombe and fabulous views of Plymouth Sound as we progress. The woods of Mount Edgecombe were littered with fallen trees and we had to turn back once or twice having ignored the path closed signs. Why do we think the signs don’t apply to locals? A nice cup of tea in the Orangery before chasing off to the ferry. Back in Devon there was no obligation to walk back to the Barbican having done that a few days earlier. Here’s where the bus pass comes in handy. Slow progress on my challenge, but under way.
19/7/19. A necessary walk but not the prettiest. Some interesting parts through the Royal William Yard, where the SW Coast Path Association now (2019) have their office. Along Plymouth Hoe with fabulous views of Plymouth Sound and down into the Barbican which is quaint. The sections along the road must tolerated. Check out quotations from Arthur Conan Doyle’s novels in Durnford Street. 3.4 miles.
Trailing acorns 